Jim Whittaker, the pioneering American mountaineer who became the first U.S. climber to reach the summit of Mount Everest, has died at 97. He passed at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, the family said in a statement shared by his son, Leif Whittaker.
Whittaker’s 1963 ascent of Everest with Nawang Gombu — a decade after Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s historic climb — made him a national figure and helped spark broad interest in mountaineering across the United States. The tall, soft-spoken climber appeared on magazine covers and was widely invited to speak and lead public events after the achievement.
A longtime leader in the outdoor community, Whittaker was hired in 1955 by REI co-founder Lloyd Anderson as the cooperative’s first full-time employee. He later served as REI’s president and CEO from 1971 to 1979, a period when the co-op’s membership expanded from roughly 250,000 to more than 900,000. The family said he sought to “share adventure, joy, and optimism” and left “an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.”
An active conservation advocate, Whittaker’s testimony and campaigning helped advance creation of North Cascades National Park and the Pasayten Wilderness in Washington, and contributed to protections for Redwood National Park in California. “Long before outdoor advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice — and his leadership — to protecting the places we love,” his family said.
Whittaker’s life intersected with public figures such as Robert F. Kennedy; he became a close friend of the senator, climbed what became Mount Kennedy with him, and was at Kennedy’s bedside after the shooting. Born in Seattle, Whittaker and his twin brother Lou began climbing as Boy Scouts in the 1940s. He later climbed K2, led international diplomacy-focused climbs including the 1990 Everest International Peace Climb, and in 1981 guided 10 climbers with disabilities up Mount Rainier — an effort he said was “Mount Everest” to them. He climbed Rainier more than 100 times and often cautioned that mountain weather can humble even veteran climbers.
Former Washington governor Jay Inslee praised Whittaker’s lasting impact on climbers and communities. Whittaker’s twin brother Lou died in 2024 at 95. Jim Whittaker is survived by his wife of 52 years, Dianne Roberts; sons Bob, Joss and Leif; three grandchildren; and one great-grandchild.